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Potpourri pages are dedicated to our travels, odds and ends, and just stuff we want to publish... additional potpourri items can be viewed here.

The Dog & Whistles’ Scottish Links

Following are some traditional recipes and holiday suggestions … as we prefer not to rent a car when we travel destinations and accommodations presented below are readily accessible via public transit. Accommodations are reasonably priced and of good value.

Mince & tatties     Brett’s favorite meal after a long hike across the moors in a wind swept rain.

Stovies     Combined leftovers of previous day’s roast dinner, typically cooked in a beef or chicken stock.   

Haggis     Oatmeal mash boiled with various, often undefined sheep innards, served with Neeps (mashed turnips). We didn’t care for it, but perhaps if more seasoned or peppered it might be to our liking.

Oban, Argyll     Gateway to the (Western) Isles, Oban is a port town with ferries to the Inner & Outer Hebrides. Oban is located at the end of one branch of the West Highland rail line, about 3 hours northwest out of Glasgow’s Queen Street station. (Note:  Train cars separate at Crianlarich with one line branching west to Oban and the other line continuing north to Fort William and Mallaig). Accommodation:  Glenburnie Guesthouse located on the Corran Esplanade waterfront, 10 minute walk north of the rail/bus station. Very nice with splendid hosts, Graeme & Allsyon Strachan.

Fort William     Situated at the base of Scotland’s tallest mountain, Ben Nevis, the town is the northern terminus of the West Highland Way (see Long Distance Walks below), well serviced by bus and ScotRail. It is a full service town with a multitude of stores, from tourist shops to hiking outfitters. Accommodation: Thistlebank B&B (operated by Mrs. MacNicol), Tel: 01397 702700.  Unfortunately no website or email, but centrally located on Cameron Road just a few blocks above the city centre.

Inverness     We didn’t spend but one day in Inverness, but it made a wonderful excursion from Fort William. After days of walking, it was a most pleasant 1-1/2 hour bus ride north on the A82 along the west shore of Loch Ness. Nice shops and a beautiful parkway along the River Ness run through the city centre.   

Stirling     We came by Stirling as a last day’s stopover prior to departing Scotland as it is close to both Edinburgh and Glasgow. There is an outstanding walking route about the city’s old wall site. A number of the Stirling Castle’s buildings were under renovation in 2008, but it is still well worth a visit. Accommodation:  Munro Guesthouse on Princes Street, 5-10 minute walk from rail/bus station, shops & historic district is a nice accommodation in city centre.  

The Dog & Whistles’ Long Distance Walks in Britain and Ireland

We enjoy long distance walking in Britain and Ireland for a host of reasons. More than anything, we relish the pastoral settings. With each stile we climb or gate we pass, thoughts turn to seeing a border collie running a pasture to gather its sheep. As we cross a field, lambs often unaware of our presence until we’re nearly upon them, bound away to their mothers’ protection.

We view the trip as a walk and not a hike. Hikers carry heavy packs filled with camping gear. Walkers stay at B&B’s and travel light. We carry little more than waterproofs and emergency items. Some walks have luggage transfer services that will drop off your bags at each night’s lodging, but with quick dry clothing allowing for an evening wash if needed, we find no need for additional outer wear.

Walks are typically 100+ miles, requiring a week or more to complete. However, with trains or buses servicing locations along the trail, walkers typically have the option to do just a portion of the walk. For example, we walked Scotland’s West Highland Way in two trips, breaking at Tyndrum, which is serviced directly by train from Glasgow.

We enjoy walking 12 or so miles a day, which fits well with distances between villages. Even if we don’t start walking until noon, with a late setting sun in spring and summer there’s no rush to make it to the next accommodation before nightfall. The terrain is rarely difficult with most walking on well worn trails and tracks. With the exception of a couple segments on Ireland’s Dingle Way, road walking was on minor roads with little concern for vehicular traffic. To avoid muddied paths, we’ve even taken to tarmac on occasion.   

Walks are “way-marked” by posts with arrows pointing the direction. While way-marking greatly eases navigation, we recommend carrying a route map and Ordinance Survey Explorer Series 1:25,000 section maps. We once missed a turn by following a local public footpath which had been sharing the route (intersecting and adjoining footpaths are common). Having the OS map allowed us to correct ourselves by using a minor road and another footpath back to the walk. (For information on GPS, click here.)

Following are long distance walks we’ve made in Britain and Ireland. Underlined titles are links to their websites. Web sites and email make planning walks from overseas quite easy. If you wish additional information, such as recommendations on lodging, please email us.  

West Highland Way - Scotland  Trail symbol is the thistle. Starting in Milngavie (Mil-guy) at the outskirts of Glasgow, the trail heads 95 miles north to Fort William at the foot of Scotland’s highest mountain, Ben Nevis. The trail crosses many landscapes, including farms, shoreline (Loch Lomond), forests, moorland and highland valleys and passes. While we favor the northern portion, our most memorable day took place in the souther section along the east shore of Loch Lomond. We left Rowardennan in a light rain, which increased in intensity throughout the day, turning sections of the trail into rivulets. A roaring fire at the Drovers’ Inn, hearth surrounded by a host of water logged boots, offered a well deserved respite and evening meal when we finally reached Inverarnan.  

Favorite section was Inveroran to Kingshouse in crossing the stark wild of Rannoch Moor.
 

Dingle Way - Ireland  Trail symbol is a backpacker with walking stick. Starting and ending in Tralee, the trail travels 110 miles  around the Dingle Peninsula in southwest Ireland. We started in Camp, a short bus ride from Tralee, and  walked the southern side of the peninsula from Annascaul to Dingle town and out past Dunquin to Feohanagh. We were fortunate to have clear skies and no rain for the entire walk. The views out over the sea rank as some of the most spectacular scenery we’ve ever seen.

Favorite section was the western headlands beyond Ventry out to Dunquin with its sheep dotted stone fenced pastures and clochains. Time your arrival around Slea Head to stop at the Italian cafe for a tea and pastry break.

Costwold Way - England  Trail symbol is the acorn. One of Britain’s National Trails, the Cotswold Way winds for 100 miles along the Cotswold Escarpment between Chipping Campden and Bath. We broke our walk into two sections. We first walked the northernmost sections from Chipping Campden to Winchcombe. Then we caught a bus into Cheltenham and a train to Dursley, where we resumed the walk for the remainder of the way into Bath. As with our Ireland walk, we were fortunate not to have any rain.  

In lieu of noting a favorite section, we highlight the many stone cottage villages with their welcoming tea rooms. Bath, at walk’s end, was an urban treat, though we walked nearly as much in Bath as we did on the trail!

Glyndwrs Way - Wales (Machynlleth to Welshpool) Scheduled for June 2011!!